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Fan Mountains

Posted on 04. Aug, 2009 by yoyo in Tajikistan

After 10 days of site-seeing in Uzbekistan it was time to get to the real thing. trekking in central Asia. a marshutka from the Registan stop, Samarkand (3,000 Sum, 30 minutes) took us to the Tajik border. the Uzbek guards didn’y even check the registration slits (which we had for almost every night) and made no fuss about us loosing one of the customs decleration forms we filled out entering the country. they even bought us a bottle of water. quite a differnt experience than with the Azeri border guards (who tried to rip us off for cash).

A 2$ taxi ride took us to Penjikent, where we stayed at Nematov Niyozkul’s homestay. we bought supplies at the bazar, 27 packs of Russian instant noodles. not a big variety.

The next morning we headed for the “Takhta bazar” marshutka stop (just under the bazar, on the right) with a note by Nematov saying we are looking for a marshutka to Margozur (our trail head).

A boy (20 years old he said) approached us on the way and started chatting  in English, translating for us in a shop. when we got to the marshutka stand he called some taxi driver friend who offered to take us to Margozur for 150 Somoni! (35$). the boy said “all tourist pay this”. we ended up paying 30 Somoni for a ride to Arutar (they wanted 40) which is on the way to Margozur. here the boy’s true face was revealed as he asked for money for his “work” translating. we, of course, would not pay, being sure we already payed twice what the locals pay for the ride. he said he was angry, and even threatened us, saying that something bad will happen to us when we return to Penjikent. oddly enough he was smiling 10 minutes later as he helped us catch a ride further on.

A few rather dangerous rides, one on a much over-packed hay truck with a local passenger hanging out of the door we finally got to the 6th lake, where Margozur is.

Here we had our first tast of Tajik hospitality. an older man and a young guy met us photographing the lake, immidiately inviting us to Chay. a long story short: we spent the night at their ‘guest-house’, ate dinner and breakfast and even charged some batteries. we would have liked to pay, but they said “Nyet Dingy” (RU: no money) so many times we never tried. instead we offered a topographic map of the region that was very welcomed.

I’m saying it was the first, as there were many more to come. in the next village on our way to Tavasang pass a family of 7 took us in, saying “choy, choy”, ending with soup, bread yogurt and all.  the oldest brother even offered to help us with a donkey. which we refused. water pistols and a promise (soon to be met) to send them photos by mail were our contribution here.

Tavasang pass took longer than we expected and we spent the night on the way down. the next day we walked along Arch Maiden to sleep under Kulikalon Pass. the route is absolutely beautiful and the connecting point of the two rivers is astonishing.

I AM WRITING THIS ON ALLAUDIN PASS, AND 2 BEARDED-EAGLES JUST PASSED 20 METERS AWAY!!! (read more)

We next climbed the Zurmech pass (note that locals call it Kulikalon pass) on top of which there are 2 ways to descend. the left trail heads down to Artush Alplager (base-camp), the right hand road keeps the same hight, crosses a small improvised yurt camp, where some choy was offered and accepted, and down to Chukruk lake above Artush Alplager. we went to the lake where we met a group of 7 Latvians camping for the night. we joined them for dinner and some whiskey.

Taking the Latvians’ advice we climbed to Kulikalon lakes through Chukruk pass instead of through the Artush Alplager. this pass was not marked on our Soviet map. it is just behind Chukruk lake, very easy to find.

In Kulikalon valley we were caught by rain, forcing us to spend the afternoon in the tent, reading books. not too bad. the next day we crossed Allaudin pass, meeting the Latvian group again, spending the night together above Allaudin Kul. by the lake there is a small basecamp (2 Euros per person for sleeping in your own tent) where beer, vodka and sometimes food is available. it was a happy night.

Next day we climbed together with the Latvians to Mutinye Kul (muddy lake) where we planned to cross Kaznook pass, at 4040m, the highest point of our trek. we used the rest of the day to climb to the pass with small packs, to see how it is. the west side was covered in snow and ice and seemed very dangerous. the eastern pass is a little less steep, also very difficult. the south side of the pass looks like one big rumble of rocks, not the best trail down.

When we got up the next morning plans had to change, as the weather was getting cold. and rainy. we were forced to hang on inside the  tents, more reading. affraid that the snow would be extremely difficult after the rain and cold weather we decided to get to Dushanbe back through Allaudin Kul. we climbed down, and started walking on the dirt-road towards the main road. towards the exit of the park 2 men approached us asking to see our registration. knowing all the taxes and fees were cancelled we understood they were trying to extort some cash. the “Nyet Panimaye” (RU: don’t understand) strategy worked like a charm and they let go.

A minivan heading to Dushanbe, asking 200 Somoni for the ride took us for 50, dropping us off at the North edge of town. a long search through the city ended up in Acted homestay.

Tags: blogsherpa, Tajikistan